Gulasch alla Triestina
Hello and Happy New Year ~ Buon Anno a tutti!
It's a new decade, but, mi dispiace, the same old me, posting belatedly and sporadically. Some things don't change. Maybe there's comfort in that?
On the subject of comfort, this recipe for Gulasch alla Triestina, a paprika-spiked stew from northern Italy, is just that ~ warm in tone and in flavor, and a good remedy for the post-holiday, midwinter doldrums in which we now find ourselves. It's a straightforward stew, which is the sort of thing you want in January, equal parts beef and onions, a little seasoning, and some slow simmering. Get it started early in the afternoon on a Saturday to enjoy later that evening or on Sunday.
The recipe comes from the cookbook Adriatico, by my friend Paola Bacchia, who lives in Melbourne and writes the popular blog Italy On My Mind. I've written about this wonderful book before; it's filled with Paola's evocative photography and recipes from Italy's eastern coast.
This recipe caught my eye because it contains a fair bit of paprika ~ both sweet and smoked. I happen to love this warm spice and the way it adds depth and a rich terracotta tinge to food. But I never thought of it as an Italian spice, which is why I was surprised and delighted to find it in Paola's book. Of course, it makes sense ~ the name of the recipe as well as the inclusion of paprika among the ingredients ~ when you think that Trieste was for centuries part of Austria and, later, the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
Use high-quality beef chuck, sourced from a local farm if you can, and cut it into cubes yourself. (Some years ago I made the decision to eat less meat ~ those of you who have hung with me on this blog for awhile have probably figured out by now that I only occasionally post meat recipes ~ so I don't mind paying more for it, knowing that it comes from a local and reputable producer.)
Paola recommends serving the gulasch with mashed potatoes or potato gnocchi. I love it served on a bed of polenta. Whichever way you choose, you are in for some serious comfort.
By the way, Paola and I have yet to meet in real life (we are working on it) but we are fast friends on Instagram, and we occasionally connect via Skype. During one of these conversations the other day, we talked about the devastating bush fires that continue to burn in Australia. More than 46 million acres have burned this season and more than 2 dozen people have died. The fires have also killed more than one billion animals ~ both wildlife and livestock. Next month, Paola is hosting a cooking class in her home to raise money for disaster relief.
Since I am on the other side of the world and not able to participate in person, I opted to make a donation. If you are feeling like-minded, here is a list of organizations:
Grazie, and let's make 2020 the year we elect leaders who believe that climate change is real and who are committed to doing something about it.
GULASCH ALLA TRIESTINA
This recipe is adapted slightly from Adriatico: Recipes and Stories from Italy’s Adriatic Coast, by Paola Bacchia. In her headnote Paola writes that every good Triestina cook has a family recipe for gulasch that has been handed down through the generations, and that winter wouldn't be the same without it.
Paola suggests serving this hearty stew with mashed potatoes or potato gnocchi. I also love it served it on a bed of polenta.
Makes 4-6 servings
Ingredients
1/3 cup (100 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 pounds (1 kg) yellow onions, sliced very thin
2 pounds (1 kg) boneless beef chuck roast, cut into small cubes (less than 1 inch)
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup (80 ml) red wine
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
2 bay leaves, fresh or dried
Leaves from 1 sprig rosemary, minced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 1/3 cups (300 ml) beef stock or water, heated
Instructions
1. Heat 4 tablespoons of the oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot over low heat, add the onions and cook, stirring often, until the onions are very soft and translucent. They should be light golden but not browned. This process will take 45 to 60 minutes, so be patient.
2. Meanwhile, brown the meat in batches: heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Drop in cubes of meat, season them lightly with salt and pepper, and sear them on all sides, turning them occasionally to prevent burning, 4-6 minutes total. Don't crowd the pan or the meat will steam rather than sear. Transfer the browned cubes to a plate and repeat until all the meat is browned. Deglaze the pan with the wine, scraping up any bits from the base of the pan and allowing some of the liquid to evaporate. Pour the wine into the pot with the cooked onions, and add the beef, as well as any juices that may have accumulated on the plate.
3. Stir in the smoked and sweet paprika, bay leaves, and minced rosemary. Dissolve the tomato paste in the hot stock or water and pour it into the pot. Season with a little salt and pepper and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer gently for 1 1/2 hours until the beef is tender. Uncover and cook a little longer, until the juices have thickened into a rich sauce. Add a splash of broth or water if the stew starts to dry out.
4. Serve the gulasch with mashed or roasted potatoes. Leftovers are delicious spooned over polenta.