Peas with Shallots and Pancetta
When my farmers' market opens in spring, I am always on the lookout for fresh English peas, packed tightly in crisp green pods. Their peak season is short, and they are perishable ~ their sugars turn to starch soon after they are picked ~ but they have a gentle sweetness that I look forward to every year.
Most of the time, though, I rely on frozen peas. Peas are one of few vegetables that are almost as good frozen (if not as good) as they are fresh, so I always keep a bag or two on hand. They make their way into soups, risotto, pasta, and frittatas, and they are one of my go-to side dishes for meatloaf, roast chicken, and fish.
Lately, I've been preparing peas in this classic way: sautéed with shallots (or spring onion) and pancetta, and lightly tinged with tomato. It comes together in under 20 minutes and has enough heft to convince you that while peas may be gentle they aren't fragile. They stand up nicely to the flavors in this dish.
PEAS WITH SHALLOTS AND PANCETTA
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Ingredients
1 (14-ounce) bag frozen peas, defrosted
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 (2-ounce) slice pancetta, cut into small dice
2 shallots or one fat spring onion, sliced paper-thin
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/4 cup chicken or vegetable broth, or water
Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions
Pour the peas into a bowl or colander and let them defrost for an hour or so (they don't have to be completely defrosted).
Film the bottom of a large skillet with the olive oil and set over medium heat. Add the pancetta to the pan and cook, stirring from time to time, until has begun to brown and render its fat, about 7 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low and stir in the shallots. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are wilted and translucent. Add the peas and stir to coat them with the oil.
In a small bowl, combine the tomato paste and broth or water. Pour this over the peas. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook at a gentle simmer for about 10 minutes, stirring every so often, until the peas are heated through and have just lost their bright green hue. This will give them just enough time to absorb the good flavors of the pancetta and tomato. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.