Savory Cheese Biscotti

These are by no means traditional biscotti; instead they are a riff on the traditional sweet almond cantucci of Tuscany. The sugar is replaced by salt and cheese, and the seasonings are assertive. The almonds remain. There is something appealingly familiar about the way these biscotti taste---the peppery bite, the warm, pronounced cheese notes, the delicate crunch of the almonds. They’re like a better version of savory homemade crackers. Even better if you serve them with a sharp goat's or sheep's milk cheese, a bowl of olives, and, if you have it, a dollop of tomato marmalade.

The recipe is adapted from my book Big Night In. Once you get the hang of it (it won't take long) you can experiment with different nuts, such as walnuts to replace the almonds; different cheeses, such as blue, cheddar or dry Jack; and a variety of herbs and spices, such as rosemary, cayenne, or crushed fennel.

SAVORY CHEESE BISCOTTI
Makes about 45 biscotti

Ingredients

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper (coarse grind)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 cup grated aged Asiago cheese
1/2 cup grated pecorino Romano cheese
1/2 cup thinly sliced almonds (with skins)
6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup milk

Instructions

Put the flour, pepper, baking powder, salt, cheeses, and almonds in the work bowl of a food processor. Pulse briefly to combine. Add the butter and pulse briefly. Set aside 1 tablespoon of the beaten eggs. Combine the remaining eggs with the milk and pour the mixture into the food processor. Process just until the mixture begins to form a ball of dough.

Turn the dough out onto a large piece of waxed paper and pat it into a disk. Wrap the disk in the waxed paper and refrigerate it for at least 2 hours and up to overnight.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees F. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let it sit at room temperature for about 15 minutes. Divide into 2 equal pieces. Roll each piece into a log about 11 inches long, 2 inches wide, and 3/4 to 1 inch thick. Place the logs on a rimmed baking sheet. With a pastry brush, lightly brush the tops of the logs with the remaining beaten egg. Bake the logs for 30 minutes, rotating the baking sheet after 15 minutes. The logs should be golden on top and springy to the touch. Remove them from the oven and transfer them to a rack to cool for 20 minutes.

Reduce the oven temperature to 300 degrees F. Place a log on a cutting board and, using a serrated knife, cut it on the bias into 1/3-inch-thick slices. Transfer the slices to a rimmed baking sheet.

Bake the biscotti for 35 to 40 minutes, turning them once halfway through, until they are golden and crisp. Remove the biscotti to a rack to cool completely. Repeat with the remaining log.

Serve as an appetizer with cheese, salami, olives, and tomato marmalade.